Beaufort City Docks, Beaufort, North Carolina

Very busy day today. Jay and Laurie took us to West Marine and another marine surplus store, and to the grocery store, Harris Teeter, a very nice store. We also went to a farm where they sell fresh vegetables and fruit. We had planned to buy strawberries, but they had none picked, so we grabbed baskets and picked our own. They are absolutely delicious. Apparently strawberry season started about 2 weeks ago here. We also noted that corn fields are planted and the corn is up 6-8". Jay told us that cotton is now being planted.
 When we got back, the boat building competition here right beside our dock was in full swing. They had set up a huge tent, and marked off areas inside the tent. Teams of 2 were given a certain amount of wood, a set number of screws, etc and a set of boat plans. They could bring and use any tools that would fit inside their area. They had 4 hours to build the boat. At 4 pm, the finished boats were launched, and the builders had to row the boat out to a set line and back, then switch with the other builder and row the boat out and back again. The boats were judged on time to finish building, quality of the boat, and time to run the relay in the water. As it happened, the boats were launched right behind the back of our boat; we had front row seats. It was a lot of fun, some were obviously experts at rowing boats, others had a little more difficulty. Some boats took on water, others were perfectly dry. some of the teams were from the local high school, others from the community college, many others people who are simply interested in building boats. Jay and Laurie, with granddaughter Emerson came back this afternoon, watched the rowboat races with us, and gave us some advice on our trip up the Chesapeake. We said good-bye to them after the races, we have very much enjoyed seeing them, and we are very grateful for all of the help they have given us. We certainly wish them well as they continue their loop in August.

Boat is coming along



Launching one of the boats

 Got together with Jim and Gloria for dinner. We will go up to Oriental tomorrow.

The boat building competition was actually a national challenge.

Jay, Laurie and Emerson







Marine surplus store has a lot of stuff in it, interesting place to visit

Beaufort City Docks, Beaufort, North Carolina

Laurie and granddaughter Emerson

At the fort, the furnace was used to heat cannon balls which would then be shot out at wooden ships offshore.

At Jay and Laurie's house, Jim, Jay, Laurie, myself and Wayne

The entrance to Fort Macon. The walls of the fort were built of brick, but the union bombardment used rifled cannon shot which was able to break down the brick walls. Brick walls were not used for building forts again.

Cooler this morning, in the high 50s when we got up; we haven't seen temperatures this cool since last fall. Had a visit with Michael, Jennifer, Daria and Keenan on Muddy Waters this morning; we had met them in Fernandino Beach and it was nice to get caught up with them again. Went with Jim and Gloria up to the North Carolina Maritime museum. They have displays about the different types of boats that have been built and used along the coast of North Carolina over the past few centuries, as well as artifacts from Queen Anne's Revenge, which was Blackbeard's boat. Edward Teach (AKA Blackbeard) was a pirate who attacked boats all along the coast of North and South Carolina, as well as further south. At one time he was given a pardon if he would discontinue his illegal activities, but somehow he was unable to refrain from being a pirate, so the North Carolinian authorities came after him. His ship, Queen Anne's Revenge, had gone aground here at Beaufort Inlet. He was caught and killed at Ocracoke Island, north of here. There are many stories surrounding Blackbeard's death, but one tale is that he was shot several times, then beheaded and his body thrown overboard. His body is supposed to have swum around the ship 3 times. A ship which they think is Queen Anne's Revenge has been found in the inlet, and archeologists have been examining it and bringing up artifacts for the past few years. Those artifacts are on display at the museum we visited this morning.


Jay and Laurie picked us up after lunch and we went to Fort Macon. This fort was built by the US as a series of forts to defend the coast. After the civil war broke out, the confederates seized the fort and held it for a year. The union forces bombarded the fort for 11 hours straight one day until the Confederates were forced to surrender. The Union used the fort for some time as a prison. The fort was also used briefly during the Spanish American war, then it was abandoned, finally sold to the state of North Carolina so that it could become a state park. It was used by the federal government again in 1941-1944 as part of the coastline defense against German U-boats. After WWII it again became part of the state park. We can still see places where the fort was damaged during the cannon fire in the Civil War. Jay and Laurie also showed us more of Morehead City and Beaufort, as well as beaches looking out over the ICW and Beaufort Inlet. We went to Jay and Laurie's house for appetizers and drinks, had the opportunity to meet their son and daughter-in-law, as well as their 14 month old granddaughter (very close in age to our granddaughter). Also had the chance to see their new home on the water - beautiful.  Soft rain falling as we returned to the boat. Jay and Laurie have kindly offered to take us shopping in the morning. We are so grateful for their help, and very happy to see them again.



Visited a cemetery here in Beaufort this morning. There are burials here from the early 1700s. It is a beautiful peaceful spot with many trees and benches.



They use old Christmas trees to stabilize the sand dunes along the coast





One area in the cemetery had no grave markers, just this sign.

Beaufort City Docks, Beaufort, North Carolina

We travelled just over 20 miles today, felt like we were going north but we have actually travelled mostly east for the past few days, today included. Got up to Beaufort just after lunch. Cool today, but a good day to travel. We were along the side of Bogue Sound, which is one of the areas they advise that you watch out for, but the breeze was out of the north, so didn't cause any big waves at all. Several other boats out on the water, one big sport fisher did a good job of waking everyone as he passed. Most boaters are so polite and mindful of others, but there is always the occasional one. Saw the occasional pelican, a few dolphins as we travelled today.
 Being at the town docks, we are right downtown, so easy access to stores and restaurants, lots of people walking by. Walked around a few of the shops, including one called Scuttlebut that sells charts, bought some of the charts we need to get home, as well as a new Canadian flag. Ours is looking quite tattered so we have been trying to get one for some time, but no one had one. We are thrilled to be able to fly a nice one again.

Just across from Swansboro, a small summer place for sale

We had hoped to meet friends Jay and Lori from Branch'N Out here, so had e-mailed that we had arrived. We were so pleased when they came by the boat. Jim and Gloria, Jay and Lori, and ourselves all went out to dinner. It was so nice to see Jay and Lori again. They know the waters down here, so have been giving us some tips on the trip ahead of us. Plan to spend the morning at the maritime museum here, then Jay and Lori have offered to take us around the area tomorrow afternoon.

Dudley's Marina, Swansboro, North Carolina

The weather predictions today were for rain, storms and wind. We got a little bit of rain, lots of cloud and wind, but no storms. Had decided we could use a day to get caught up on chores anyway, so stayed here another day. Took the courtesy car into Swansboro with Jim and Gloria this morning, went to the hardware store then went through a few tourist stores downtown. Made a key lime pie this afternoon (Gloria shared her recipe and it is really good). Wayne and I walked down the road a couple of miles, nice walking because they have a side-walk along the road. Gloria and I had picked up some shrimp this morning, we got together and cooked shrimp, beans and rice, along with salad and fresh asparagus for dinner. Very good. We invited the man from the boat across the dock to join us for dinner; he is 83 and has sailed south every year for several years. Has not gone for the past few years because his wife died. He had planned to take a friend this year, but the friend was unable to go at the last minute, so he went alone. He says it was the trip from hell, anything that could go wrong did go wrong (he was the boat that was stuck on the bottom as we went by yesterday, had to get TowBoat US to get him off). Very nice man, and it was interesting to visit with him. Also watched the marina pull a boat out of the water on their railway lift today, fun to watch. As long as the winds die down, we plan to go up to Beaufort tomorrow.

Boat being pulled out on railway lift

Goria walking the dogs, Buddy and Booboo

Dudley's Marina, Swansboro, North Carolina

Three more waiting to cross

An amphibious vehicle crossing the intracoastal

And climbing out the other side

Left the anchorage at Wrightsville Beach this morning about 8:30 so that we could catch the bridge opening at 9, which worked well. Four bridges today, we needed 3 of them opened for us. Travelled 54 miles north. We are still seeing some salt marsh, many homes and cottages with docks out on the water. Saw dolphins today, hadn't seen any for a few days. Along the way, the intracoastal waterway passes through Marine Corps Base Camp Lejeune, a 246 square mile military base. One section can be closed for live firing exercises, but no live firing over the waterway today, so we were able to proceed. As we passed through the camp, an amphibious vehicle suddenly crossed the waterway ahead of us, then a second. They splash into the water, go fairly quickly across, then just climb up the other side. As we got to the point where they were going into the water, a man on the side signaled the other three to wait until we had passed. There were helicopters flying overhead, then, after we left the area of the base we heard several bangs which we assume was something or someone practicing firing weapons. Very exciting. Also saw the remains of tanks along the side of the intracoastal, we assume left from firing practice.

This tank looks like it has been well used for target practice.

Some shallow areas, passed a sailboat hard aground.  He had been asking passing boats to wake him, but by the time we passed him he was on a tilt, and he did not ask us to wake him. We wonder if previous wakings had made things worse. After we docked at the marina this afternoon he came in as well, so he did get off the bottom. It was low tide when he got there, so probably floated off with rising tide.

The lights were not flashing, so safe for us to proceed

They have a courtesy car here, so Gloria and I took it into town and got groceries at Piggley Wiggley, quite a nice grocery store. It is cooler tonight, with predictions of storms and cooler weather tomorrow, so we may well stay here.




This pink house stands out as a landmark along the route.

Clyde belongs to the owner of the marina, he (the bird) is 60 years old.

Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina

We spent the morning at  Baldhead Island  Marina; did the wash and went for a long walk on the beach. Lots of shells, jellyfish on the beach. Watched a couple of crab scuttling for their holes. As we left Baldhead Island, we were heading up the Cape Fear River, and all of the books say to enter the Cape Fear River on a rising tide, otherwise you will travel against a very strong current. Low tide was at 1:30 pm, we left the marina just after lunch. As we left Baldhead Island, we had to go around some shoals, follow the inlet channel, then enter the river. At that point, we were passed by a fast ferry from the island, met a tanker coming out of the river, had several speed boats zipping around, then were passed by and met a couple of ferriers from further up the river. Seemed like a very busy place, with lots of wakes, for a few minutes. Once we got into the river itself it was OK. Travelled up the river and into Snows Cut, then up to Wrightsville Beach. Along the way, passed Sunny Point ammunition depot,apparently the ammunition storage for all of the US. It would have been really easy to follow the marked channel into their area, but it was well guarded with several boats with guns, and many danger signs. I suspect that one would not get very far up their channel.

Beach, then sand dunes, then houses.

Passed by a floating bait store today

Some of the other boats in the anchorage; as it happens, the three closest to us are Canadian. We have seen them before, but never actually met them.

 Watched pelicans today, but realized that we had not seen any dolphins, very unusual, so we wonder if we are getting too far north for them at this time of year. Came into the anchorage to find several boats already here. Both Crawdad and ourselves did manage to find a place to anchor. This will be the first time we have anchored in higher tides and tidal currents, so it will be interesting. Today as we travelled, we crossed the 34th parallel, so we are moving north. O f course, home is at the 45th parallel, so a little way to go. Jim and Gloria came over for drinks before dinner, then we barbqued on the boat, an easy meal. We are anxiously awaiting the results of the Canadian election tonight.

Garages on Baldhead Island are very small, but then they only hold golf carts.

More huge homes, many with the widows walk on top

Bald Head Island, Cape Fear, North Carolina

We have travelled just a few miles today, past Southport and partway out the Cape Fear inlet to Bald Head Island. This island borders the southeasterly flank of the Cape Fear River's outlet to the Atlantic Ocean. It has also been known in the past as Smith Island and Cape Fear Island.  It is a unique ecological area, one of the most tropical spots in North Carolina. Warm weather plants sucha s Spanish bayonets, palmettos, and palm trees grow here. Tradition says that frost has never touched the island. There was a great deal of controversy in the 1960s when a group of developers wanted to build on the island, while a group of environmentatlists wanted to maintain the island's natural state. The problem has been solved by building homes, townhouses and cottages on the southwestern beaches and in the interior forests while many other parts of the island have been preserved in their natural state. No cars are allowed on the island, tranportation is by golf cart or bike, or walking (we did see one police car). The only way to get on the island is by ferry or private boat.
The island has some wonderful beaches, and great hiking trails. It also has a lighthouse, built in 1817 and decomissioned several years ago but maintained by a group on the island. The lighthouse is knows as "Old Baldy".

Looking out over the island from Old Baldy

After lunch we rented bicycles and rode around the seven miles around the island. It is an interesting mix of beaches along the east, south and west sides, sand dunes just inland from the beaches, then forest in the interior, with some marshy areas. We also visited the lighthouse, which is actually quite near the marina, climbed the lighthouse to the top - good view from the top. There was a tiny alligator, about 30" long, in the water by the docks here at the marina. He was just floating on the top of the water havving a good look around, then was startled by something and swam away under the water before I could get a picture.
Went to dinner at Ebb and Flo's steam restaurant here at the marina. The noseeums arrived as we were eating, so chased us indoors after dinner. Finished dinner with key lime pie on Crawdad. Gloria has given me the recipe, so will have to try making it.

One of the more unusual houses on the island

"Old Baldy"

Wayne and Jim having a discussion on the beach

A couple of the homes overlooking the beach, with sand dunes around the houses




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